The beginning of Union Scrap

After getting most of the scenery done around Winnfield, the location of Union Scrap looked like a bare island surrounded by the newly applied greenery.  So I thought it was time to disguise the bare island.

I started out building the Walther's State Line Farm Supply kit for the main office.  The only changes I made to it was leaving some of the overhead doors open and one in the front partially open.  I also placed the front door panel to the right side with a window panel in the middle.  No particular reason, just thought it would look good.

I painted the rear and side walls a concrete color and the front facade I used a Sand colored paint to give it a slightly different appearance.  After that dried I sealed it and started applying a couple different colors of Rail Center Enamel washes to give it dirty look, after all, it will be in a in a junk yard.  Finally I dusted it carefully with some Pan Pastels around the base and under the roof overhangs.

The roof was pretty plain Jane looking, so I added strips of  6mm Tamiya tape to the roof to give it a tarpaper appearance.  First I painted it with Vallejo Tire Black and sealed it and sealed it.   Next I gave it a good dose of weathering using some Rail Center Enamel Aged Wash to lighten it a bit.  Then I used a fine tip Sharpie to define the tarpaper.  After that I judicially applied different shades of Gray Pan Pastels to give a varied sun bleached appearance.   

When I was done I sealed it with a good coat of Dullcote thinned to 50/50.  I just sprayed over the windows to give a nice filthy look as well. 

                                        

Here was the fun part.  I wanted a fence around the entire yard.  The way I designed it is covered in the previous post.  The test samples that I made turned out to my liking, so I fired up the printer and imported the fencing panel, then cloned it 23 times to fill up the print plate.  That made 24 panels, wasn't sure if that was enough or not, so I printed a second batch of 24.  48 plus the two samples, that should be enough?

Now I need to put the Corrugated roller jig to work and start cranking out the panels!

  

The scrap yard fence

Well, I finally done hit me a good stoppin’ point on that stretch of scenery between Ruston and Winnfield—mostly on account of this thick, unseasonable humidity we been sweatin’ through this September—when somebody up and told me I needed to get to work on some structures. Now, that the Union Scrap yard sits right smack in the middle of where I just finished workin’. Instead of leavin’ it go like some bare island, I reckon’d I’d go ahead and tackle that project next.

For the main building, I figured that Walthers State Line Farm Supply kit would fit in right nice.

I gots to thinkin’ the yard’s gonna be needin’ a machinist shop for fixin’ things up, too, and that Walthers Pole Barn kit oughta do the trick. Seems like a darn good start for this whole scene.

My next thought was buildin’ a fence to enclose the yard—somethin’ to keep it from lookin’ like a total eyesore to the folks around town and keep the riff-raff out. I went snooping around the web for a little inspiration and ran across a few pictures where folks built fences outta scrap corrugated metal sheets. Looked simple enough! I’ve made corrugated sheets for roofing before, so a fence couldn't be too terribly hard, right?

First off, I realized I was gonna need some kind of frame to hold them sheets up. I could've used styrene or soldered together some thin brass rod, but this fence might turn out to be a pretty long run, and that’s a whole heap of cuttin’ and solderin’.

Then I thought: Why not just print somethin’? I got that new Bambu P2S sittin' here now. Surely somebody's done uploaded a file I could use? But after hours of searchin', I came up emptier than a dry well. So, I moseyed over to TinkerCad to see what I could whip up myself.

Based on how big corrugated sheets usually run, I came up with a test size for the fence frame: 40' wide by 10' tall, which translates to 3" wide by 1" tall in N scale. The three taller posts stick out an extra 1/4" on the bottom so I can sink 'em right into the ground to hold the fence upright. For the top drawin', I made the frame using 1/2 mm material, and for the bottom, I went with 3/4 mm.

I fired up the printer and gave it a go. I figured it was way too tiny to print right, but low and behold, that 1/2 mm one actually worked! I went ahead and printed one of each. Here’s a look at the 1/2 mm version.

With the framing out of the way, I turned my attention back to them corrugated sheets. A while back, a buddy of mine printed off some kind of contraption he found online. It had two cylinders that rolled together like an old wringer washer—you’d feed heavy-duty aluminum foil right through it, and it’d come out lookin' just like corrugated metal. I actually used that thing to make a barn roof once, and it turned out slicker than a whistle. But do you think I could find that blame thing now that I actually need it again? Not a chance.

So, it was back to Google to search for somethin' similar. To my surprise, I found a fella who designed a roller just like the one my buddy had, but this guy took it a step further. He didn't just make one for N scale—he had one designed for just about every scale under the sun!

Best part? It was posted right on Bambu Makers World! I signed in, downloaded the N scale version, fired up the printer, and went to town. It turned out alright, but my printer setting knowledge is still in the "learnin' phase." The print came out sharp, but I could see layer lines runnin’ all the way up the two cylinders, which ended up showin' through when I tried it out. Still, bein' N scale, I figured if I weathered the panels real good, it might not look too bad.

After takin' a closer look at the pressed foil, though, those layer lines were stickin' out like a sore thumb. Worse than that, the ribs were pretty small—well defined, sure, but real tiny. So I went back, downloaded the 1/148th scale version, and gave it another shot. This worked much better! After fiddlin' around with the printer settings, I managed to smooth out those layer lines enough to satisfy me.

Here’s what that tool looks like. Just to be clear, this here is a stock photo, not the actual 1/148th version.

Once I had all the parts together, it was time to get down to brass tacks and start testin'. I pressed and cut a handful of panels, grabbed my two fence frames, and pulled out the Gel Super Glue. I started by dabbin' a few spots on the frame, carefully laid down the first sheet, and gently pressed it in place. After gettin' all the sheets spot-glued down, I flipped it over and ran a little thin super glue along the frame to let it flow and lock everything in.

For reference, that top section has the 1/2 mm frame and the panels I made with the 1/160th roller. The bottom section has the 3/4 mm frame and the panels made with the 1/148th roller. If you look real close at the top panels, you can see them horizontal lines left behind by the print layers. On the bottom section, they ain't nearly as noticeable, and the corrugated lines are defined a whole lot better.

Now, if you was to lay a micrometer on those corrugation lines, they’d probably test out too big. But at this point, I always fall back on a rule of thumb I learned a long time ago: in N scale, texture needs to be a hair bigger than true scale. That way, your brain can catch it, realize what it’s lookin' at, and make the adjustment so it looks right to the eye.

To make more sense of it: some modelers swear Woodland Scenics N scale ballast is way too big. Truth is, they’re right! Folks have used sanded grout for ballast instead, which is probably a lot closer to actual scale size. But when you step back and look at it from a normal viewing distance, that sanded grout looks more like glued-down powder than rock ballast. Bein' just a pinch bigger, that Woodland Scenics ballast shows actual texture from a distance, so your brain recognizes it for what it is. In a passin' glance, it looks just right—even if you lean in real close and stare at it, you realize it looks like more like 12-inch boulders! So in my book, a little bigger is always better.

Aways, enough of my jabberin' and philosophizin'—back to the fence. Once everything was good and dry, I brushed on some Dullcote to give the metal some tooth for paintin', then sprayed on a coat of Tamiya light gray for a base. I messed around with a weathering trick I found online (though I can already tell I’m gonna need to practice that some more down the road). It ain't the grandest thing ever, but I reckon it's gonna make for a decent-lookin' fence.

I just picked a random spot on the layout to take a couple pictures, but I think it’s gonna work out just fine.

If you're not careful, you might find yourself in need of one them thar tetanus jabs if you get too close to that fence, I reckon?

A little bit of railfanning

 

Kudzu county

This dadgum kudzu's fixin' to go 'n cover the whole entire county if we don't try ’n keep it under control!

Scenery between Ruston and Winnfield

A quick footnote. A friend and I was talking the other day about using AI to help refine our writing skills. She said it's been fun to mess around with and to have it write using an accent. So since I'm modeling in the south, I figured to have it write with a southern dialect. We'll see how this goes?

It’s been a hot minute since I done any real work on the scenery around here. I done dragged out most of the stuff I needed and dumped it right on the layout so I could get to it quick. Means the whole setup is out of commission till I get this job wrapped up.

Now that the yard backdrop is finally sorted out, I figured it was high time to get back to the stretch between Ruston and Winnfield. A while back, I tossed down some plain old ground foam over that brown paint. Worked fine for a bit, but I’m fixin’ to spruce it up proper with some static grass and thicker brush.

First thing I tackled was laying down some Kudzu and wild brush between Ruston and the farm. Put static grass on them flat hilltops, but down those slopes headin’ to the tracks, I knew some thick Kudzu would look slicker than a whistle.

To make that Kudzu, I grabbed me a tiny pinch of Woodland Scenics Poly Fiber and pulled it real thin, then laid it across them hillside banks. Didn’t even need glue to start—that base of foam grabs hold of them fibers like Velcro, so you just stretch and press it right down.

Once I had the spot covered, I doused it good with hairspray till it turned all frosty-looking. Then I sprinkled a light dustin’ of dark green foam over it. Hit it with another shot of hairspray to lock that down and give the medium green foam something to stick to. Kept stackin’ thin layers, goin’ lighter and lighter on the green till that brush was thick enough to hide the fibers underneath.

When I had it lookin’ just right, I gave it one last heavy soak of hairspray to seal the deal. Once it dries up, that hairspray holds like iron on a layout that ain’t movin’ nowhere.

With the Kudzu all set, I moved on to layerin’ static grass up on the hilltops. Even though I’m fixin’ to cover most of them hills with trees later on, I wanted the grass underneath to look wild and natural, not like some fancy manicured lawn. I also went ahead and put static grass between the tracks too, usin’ the same trick along with some heavier brush.

Then I headed over to the section runnin’ from the farm to Winnfield, and managed to glue down a large amount of that static grass before I plum ran out of time.

I also gave it a go scrapin' out a few low-lying spots between them tracks so they'd look like muddy puddles after a heavy downpour. That pond settin' right in the middle of the shot is somethin' else I gotta mess around with. Plan on puttin' static grass all around the edges and far enough into that pond so when I pour the water, them blades will be risin right up out of the water. I reckon that’s all for now.

The finished yard backdrop

 It's finished and back in place.

Creating a Backdrop Tree Line with Gemini AI

Over the past year or so, I have seen model railroaders add snow effects to photos of their layouts using AI. Modeling a Southern local, I preferred rain and a stormy atmosphere over snow. I decided to experiment with Gemini AI to generate custom imagery for my layout like others have done.

Crafting effective prompts is key. Even with detailed phrasing, the initial output may not match your exact expectations. For example, when attempting to show locomotive headlight beams shooting forward, several generations produced beams pointing skyward from the cab windows. With persistent adjustments to the prompts, I achieved the desired result.

Designing Backdrop Buildings

When planning the backdrop for the yard, I wanted a continuous line of trees spanning its full length. Satellite imagery of Biddle Yard in Little Rock, Arkansas, confirmed a dense tree line on the north side of the yard, separating it from the city.

Rather than hand-painting the scenery, I used Gemini to generate backdrop structures and foliage, intending to show select building tops peeking over the tree line.

I prompted Gemini to generate a large, three-story metal-skinned industrial building featuring a two-tone tan exterior with lighter tan on top.

Initial attempts produced three-quarter angled views from an elevated perspective. To make the image suitable for a flat backdrop, I refined the prompt to request an elevation view showing only the front face of the building without perspective, roof lines, or side walls.

Then to visualize the final composition before painting, I instructed Gemini to add a row of foliage in front of the structure.

Not quite what I wanted.

I then requested the removal of overhanging branches above the roofline, leaving only a low tree line covering the lower portion of the building. Interestingly, Gemini added rooftop HVAC units during this pass without explicit prompting.  Now we’re getting somewhere!  It was about that time that it occurred to me, why not just have Gemini create a tree line to print and paste to the backdrop instead of trying to play Bob Ross?

Generating the Tree Line

At this stage, I realized I could generate printable tree line images directly rather than painting them by hand.  After experimenting with various prompts requesting photorealistic tree lines, Gemini produced this usable image.

Planning and Printing Considerations

Several technical challenges required consideration during the planning phase:

Sky gaps: Gaps within the foliage needed to display a blue sky tone matching the painted backdrop rather than a stark white background.

Foliage trimming: Cutting out intricate treetops across long sections can be labor-intensive.

Pattern variation: To avoid repetitive patterns across a 20-foot backdrop, multiple distinct image segments were necessary.

Production method: I evaluated printing custom banners at a commercial print shop versus printing multiple smaller sheets at home on standard 11.5-inch paper. Printing locally provided greater flexibility for variation and adjustments at a comparable cost.

Image Editing and Color Matching

To streamline preparation and installation, I used the following workflow:

Sky Background Alignment: I re-imported the tree line into Gemini and requested a solid blue background. After lightening the tone by 10%, the color matched the painted blue backdrop on the layout pretty close.

Resolution Upscaling: Downloaded PNG files were upscaled to approximately 1600 pixels wide, which provided sufficient resolution for N scale modeling.  I think 1600 was the maximum size with the free version?

Background Ink Reduction: I converted the PNG files to JPG format and used the eraser tool in MS Paint to clear out large areas of blue sky, reducing ink consumption during printing.

Trimming and Blending: I roughly cut along the treetop perimeter. Any remaining blue paper margins were later blended into the painted sky using a stippling technique with backdrop paint.

Color Correction: Because printed outputs ran darker than displayed on screen, I adjusted exposure, sharpness, and green hues using Luminar4 and it's photo editing capabilities prior to final printing.

Media Selection and Layout Setup

Using standard paper can cause ink absorption, producing dull images. I opted for Matte photo paper, which maintains crisp edges. To optimize print speed and ink usage, I configured the printer to standard quality on plain paper settings while feeding Matte photo paper, yielding sharp results without excess ink laydown.

Others weren’t kidding, using the photo paper rather than plain copy paper looked much better.

I arranged the images in CorelDraw, scaling them in landscape orientation to a height of no more than 4.5" in height. This setup allowed two tree line prints per sheet.

Assembly and Installation

I followed these steps to prepare and mount the printed tree line sections:

1. Trimming and Mating Edges: Square the side and bottom edges using a paper trimmer to ensure clean splices. Trim the tops along the foliage outline.

2. Edge Coloring: Run black, green, or brown markers along cut paper edges to eliminate visible white paper borders.

3. Clear Coating: Apply two light coats of Krylon Acrylic Matte finish to protect the printed ink from moisture during subsequent scenery work.

4. Adhesive Application: Brush full-strength Matte Medium onto the back of each print. Matte Medium provides sufficient working time for position adjustments and dries clear. I thought about using a spray adhesive, but I read where that stuff will break down over time. allowing the images to curl.

Boomer suggested using Matte Medium as the adhesive. It dries completely clear and easy to clean up and paint over if needed.

5. Mounting: Press the print onto the backdrop. Use a 4-inch foam roller and a glass jar to burnish the surface, smooth out imperfections, and press out excess glue. Clean up the squeeze-out immediately with a damp sponge. The Matte Medium doesn't dry on contact. It takes a little bit of time to set up, but that also allows you a short window where you can make slight adjustments if needed.

6. Final Blending: Allow the adhesive to dry thoroughly. Stipple matching sky paint over remaining paper margins and white paint for cloud highlights to blend the prints seamlessly into the backdrop.

Layering Trees Over Structures

For sections featuring buildings situated behind foliage, generate the tree line as a transparent PNG file instead of a JPG file. Removing the background color allows underlying structures to show naturally through gaps in the branches.

Now I know there are probably better ways to do this, but if so, I’m unfamiliar with how that works.  I’m using methods that I know.

Tree line created by Gemini AI

I think I'm going to like doing this?  They actually came out better than I would have thought, the actual printing that is.

In a way, they kind of look a little overpowering, but I think it's because I'm so use to seeing just a blue backdrop for several years?

I'll try to explain the process of how I created the trees, from conception and design to the actual gluing onto the backdrop in the next post.

In the meantime here a few shots of how they turned out.  The first shot is the left end of the yard where it joins the main layout.

There are seven unique 11-1/4" wide sections that make up the long backdrop.  I used 2 more 11-1/4" sections for the angled backdrop (with the water tower), of which one of them I trimmed to fit.

The left end.

The right end.

The angled section on the right end.

To clarify, the building and water tower were both embedded into each print with the tree line that they reside behind as a single image.