The second video shows him using the JMRI program and while there are other ways of using it, he gives a good example of how some of the features work. He does not explain it in a real detailed way, but you can get the jist of how it works.
The reason I invested in the Speed Tunnel is because it does a great job of replacing the "Golden Locomotive" and it remains constant unlike a locomotive can as it gets broke in over time.
Start by cleaning the track and wheels of the loco, then warm the loco up by letting it run for 5 - 10 minutes. If the loco is new, be sure to break it in by running for 30-45 minutes as varying speeds, both forwards and reverse before attempting to match the speed. While the loco is warming up, I usually grab a soda or make a pit stop.
A note on BEMF...
The only time BEMF can become a problem is when running two or more engines in a consist with them all having BEMF turned on. If one of the engines runs slightly (and I mean SLIGHTLY !) slower or faster than the other, the BEMF will be constantly fighting trying to even things out.
If the second engines senses things are starting to slow (because it pushes the lead engine for a split second) it will try to increase the speed to mantain it's preset level. The lead engine feels this slight push and thinks it's starting to go too fast, and the BEMF tries to slow it down. The multiple units fighting against each other can create some not so smooth operation. This is why most guys turn BEMF off when using engines in consists.
There have been times on a Digitrax decoder where I've had to turn it back on but with only a value of 1. I've done this so the unit responds a bit better. I've found this to be helpful on older locomotives with a faster motor and older chips.
Again, you can always turn it on or off and play with it. JMRI makes this very easy to do with a simple click of the mouse.
I chose the "Log Curve" so the throttle has a quicker response at the lower speeds [this covers 0% to 49% of the throttle] and slower response at the higher speeds.
Fourth, I turn the throttle down to 25%, the speed should be around 38-40 smph.
Fifth, I turn the throttle down to 12%, the speed should read around 20-22 smph.
I'm simply trying to get close to the setting that I want by doing it this way, it's very similar to using the Start, Mid & Max settings.
But by using the full speed table I can now start fine tuning the locos speed. If you want your locos to run faster or slower, simply adjust the over all Log Curve" by using the Forward and Reverse trims.
I have heard and found out for myself that very seldom does a locomotive run the same speed in both the forward and reverse direction. For that matter, even the same make and model will sometimes not run at the same speed right from the factory. By having a separate trim CV for both the Forward and Reverse direction, makes it very handy to get the speeds match in both directions.
At the time I wrote this up, I know that some chips do not have both CV's available. Both Digitrax and TCS does, while NCE chips do not. One reason why I stick with Digitrax and TCS for my chips. I'm sure there are other brands of chips that have both, but I'm not familiar with them.
I came up with these speeds by setting my golden loco to speeds that I thought looked pleasing to my eyes. After getting the Accutrack tunnel I ran the loco through it to see what the Speed Tunnel showed for speed at each throttle setting and then wrote them down and taped them to the speed tunnel for reference.
99% = 70 smph
49% = 58 smph
25% = 40 smph
12% = 22 smph
Again this is what I felt was right to me, feel free to change them for your needs.
A few side notes...
For awhile I also struggled with getting the speeds to match at each of the four throttle settings. Sometimes I could keep the speeds matched at 12% and 25%, but at the settings of 49% and 99% they would be higher than what I had on the chart, other times they were lower.
After getting a good batch of my locos speed matched and running them in a few operating sessions, I found that I would normally run my trains at about 15% of the throttle setting [or speeds of 20 smph max] and very rarely ran at speeds higher than 25%. It then occurred to me that as long as I can keep the speeds matched close at the 12% to 25% range then things should be OK. If they ran a little different at higher speeds they would not be as noticeable because of two things; One, I don't run them that fast and two, several things come into play at the higher speeds. The slower running locos will keep the faster locos at bay because they run slower and, the weight of the train will tend to even out the locos. When I say they run faster, it's not by much but you can see the difference if you were to uncouple them. The faster ones would pull away but not at a rockets pace.
Another thing I noticed was that even though two locos may not be matched perfectly, once they get running they seem to run very well together, at least one isn't spinning it's wheel and the other isn't being drug along behind the first one. You may notice the couplers may bunch or stretch as the units are running. This may be very apparent when the consist starts to move from a stand still. You will see the faster locos start a little quicker than some of the others, but soon the others will begin to move as well and then even out. This where and why I add just a bit of momentum, it helps to diminish the bucking and jerking at start up.
If you watch the prototypes, you will see this action as well. GE units use to start at a slower pace than say EMD's, you would see the units buck and jerk as they begin to move, but once they're moving they would tend even out.
I hope this helps out?